Herald rating:
The menu is an all-day list of favourites and dishes with a twist: Hinemoa omelette with portobello mushroom, roasted red capsicum and greens; buttermilk hotcakes with mascarpone and blackberry grape compote; salmon potato cakes; breakfast brochette ... plus gluten-free and vegetarian options, and a decent list of specials on the blackboard.
The look is modern and cosy. It's set in a colonial building, with flecked concrete floors, patterned wallpaper, long wooden tables and trendy black mesh lightshades. There's a kid-friendly corner with books and toys, and you can sit comfortably at a table on the footpath, sheltered from the wind and rain.
The food was pretty standard, and that's judging it on two visits. Last time I ordered the veggie grill ($21.90), intrigued by the zucchini and sesame seed rosti, which sounded so fresh and healthy, but was oily with a slightly burnt flavour. This time I ordered the savoury french toast ($17.50) with pastrami, cheddar, red onion and red pepper jam. It was fine but basically a rich, eggy version of a toasted sandwich. My other half ordered the Hinemoa grill ($22.90), which came with nicely poached free-range eggs, free-range bacon, organic beef sausage, portobello mushrooms, grilled tomato, a hash brown and homemade relish. Good without raving, he reckoned.
The coffee was excellent: our double-shot flat whites were just the right temperature and strength, the crema presented with an artful swirl, and a cute shortbread biscuit on the side.
The service was fantastic. The place was packed on the Sunday morning we visited, and our smiling waitress apologised for the wait on the coffees, even though it wasn't that bad. The staff here are lovely.
Overall, it's great to see these guys are committed to using organic and free-range produce through ethically minded suppliers. But it would be even better if the food really lived up to its virtuous-sounding name.